It seems that when the majority of designers head in one direction, Miuccia Prada takes the exact opposite path. For just as a majority of the mens collections pushed classic travel-inspired clothes in warm colors, Ms. Prada returned to her slick urban sensibilities, working slim suits in a black and charcoal palette. There was nary a gimmick in sight, instead an abundance of smart jackets and trousers. That's not to say the collection was devoid of her usual quirk, though this time it manifested itself in a finale of transparent trousers which were just fashiony enough to appease editors.
Take note Chistophe Decarnin, Roberto Cavalli is suddenly more Balmain than Balmain Homme. Cavalli's latest menswear collection seemed to follow the trail he blazed with his most recent womens show; that is black, leather and a dose of grunge. He has come a long way from his bedazzled, animal printed heyday in the early half of the millenium, though his trademark sexiness remains intact. An oversized navy band jacket with shoulder epaulettes was directional and on-trend, but the biggest news was a super high-waisted skinny pant worn unzipped and folded over like a wetsuit. Paired with a loose-draped tank or a structured shoulder, it was convincing enough to place the Cavalli boy as the Balmain chick's hard-partying boyfriend.
Although I was less than impressed with Marc Jacobs' proposals for next spring, I think this is a beautifully-cut jacket, and a fluid, precise complete look.